Here are our two key tips to reaching anchovy heaven:
1) Think outside the box! That is, remember that anchovies are more than just little fish. Instead of serving them plain (though that’s great!), we like to think of them as a condiment or seasoning. They’re sort of like a brilliant cross between savories like capers and olives (add briny taste and textural interest) and sauces like Worchestershire and Asian fish sauce (just a touch adds great flavor). And did you know that anchovies are a key ingredient in both of these?
Anchovies work wonderfully with pastas, in dips, and of course in salads. And when they’re this good, they’re also wonderful served plain, of course. Scroll down for serving ideas and recipes!
2) Great quality equals great anchovies. There’s no substitute for this. These Spanish and Italian anchovies are excellent, they’re packed in quality olive oil, and they’re beautifully preserved. The flavor, texture and smell will all reflect it. Good anchovies are meaty and firm, not mushy, and not unbearably salty, with a dark reddish-brown color and a rich, deep flavor.
SPANISH ANCHOVIES BY ORTIZ
It’s hard to know just where anchovies come from. Tins may be labeled “Spanish anchovies” and packed there, but the company may be sourcing them elsewhere. Conservas Ortiz is a label you can trust.
Based on the coast of the Cantabrian Sea, Ortiz fishes the anchovies and processes them right there. The packers are all women, and they are so skilled at this that they can clean and fillet an anchovy in 10 seconds. “Nobody cleans the anchovies like the people we have,” says Iker, one of our Ortiz representatives. “Men can not do that.” He’s not really joking. (Unlike most companies, in the unusual event that there are not enough Cantabrian Sea anchovies and they have to source the fish from somewhere else, Ortiz will indicate that on the label.) Whether packed whole in salt or filleted in oil, Spanish anchovies from the Cantabrian sea have become a worldwide favorite for their firm texture and intense flavor.
Whole Fillets in Olive Oil by Ortiz (Click!)
Tim met with Jacobo of Ortiz recently at the food show in San Diego, and came away with this exquisite tin. Unlike most fillets, these are carefully selected, very large, whole fillets of fish, not pieces. They are ready to be plated and served, with perhaps a tiny drizzle of your favorite olive oil for a garnish. They’ll add rich, wonderful flavor to your pasta puttanesca, too.
Whole Salt-Packed Anchovies by Ortiz (Click!)
We were also thrilled to find a salt-packed version by Ortiz. We’re big fans of whole salt-packed anchovies, and these are exemplary.
ITALIAN ANCHOVIES BY SCALIA and RECCA
Sicily has an ages-long history of anchovy fishing. Recca has long been a standard among restaurants for quality anchovies, and Scalia, a relative newcomer, has made a big splash with their excellent anchovies packed in extra-virgin olive oil. Ideal for cooking with.
Fillets in Extra-Virgin Olive Oil by Scalia (Click!)
This little jar is an excellent anchovy intro! Great quality, oil-packed fillets.
Tin of Fillets in Extra-Virgin Olive Oil by Scalia (Click!)
Onwards and upwards? Here are the same fillets in a larger package.
THE CHOICE: SALT-PACKED WHOLE FISH OR OIL-PACKED FILLETS?
Most of us are familiar with anchovies that have been filleted and are packed in oil. At their best, these are delicious bursts of flavor with good, firm texture – but too often, the ones sold in the grocery store or slapped on a pizza are not that great. Ours are wonderful. Look for anchovies packed in olive oil, which not only gives the fillets better flavor, but helps the fish retain healthy omega-3 fatty acids.
Anchovies may also be preserved whole, in salt. These are harder to come by, but aficionados often prefer them, for their superior flavor and meatier texture. In addition, they actually tend to be less salty than the fillets, once they’re rinsed of excess salt and soaked for about 15 minutes in water.
How to Prepare Whole Salted Anchovies
To use whole salted anchovies, first soak them in cold water for about 15 minutes to rid them of excess salt. (If you’re really in a hurry, rinse them under cold water.) Then, by inserting your thumb down the middle of the fish, you’ll be able to remove the bone. Rinse well after, and you’re in business.
AND GOOD FOR YOU, TOO!
Anchovies are high in heart-healthy omega-3s, and they add calcium to your diet, and they have a good amount of protein without too much fat. In addition, they have one of the lowest levels of mercury of ocean fish.
SO, WHAT DO I DO WITH ANCHOVIES?
So many delicious possibilities! Although we’ve emphasized them as a seasoning touch, good-quality anchovies are excellent on their own. Together with gently boiled potatoes and hard-boiled eggs, they make a simple, satisfying meal, perfect when followed by a green salad (with maybe a hint of anchovy in the vinaigrette!). A little finely chopped anchovy stirred into a sauce or marinade brings out the flavor in milder fillets of fish.
See our recipes below:
Pasta Bigoli in Salsa with Anchovies recipe
Preserved Lemon, Anchovy and Piquillo Dip recipe
Anchovy Toasts with Piquillo Peppers and Idiazabal Cheese recipe
STORAGE AND A NOTE ABOUT THE TINS
After opening your anchovies, keep them refrigerated. For the tinned ones, we prefer to transfer them to a glass jar or other container and add a little olive oil to cover if necessary. ( This tin comes with a plastic lid for convenient storage after opening.)
Even before opening, the tin should be kept cool, either in a cool, dark cupboard or in the refrigerator, the warmest part if possible.
A note about rust: Sometimes the large tins of anchovies may have some rust on the exterior. Not to worry! This is a normal result of the aging and packing process and the contact of the tin with salt. This does NOT affect the anchovies. The rust is on the outside only, and the interior of the tin is lined and non-reactive.
(c) ChefShop.com, 2008
Posted on February 20th, 2008 by chefshop1
Filed under: Gourmet Food
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